On historic Baghdad street, spirit of music and culture shines Seated at tables with glasses of tea in the heart of Baghdad's bookshop district, the customers of Shabandar cafe have watched 100 years of Iraq's tumultuous history pass by. Since opening its doors a century ago on the historic Al-Mutanabbi Street, the establishment has become a hub of Baghdad's intellectual life, drawing poets and politicians to its wooden benches and photo-lined walls.