Cafe on once-bustling Baghdad street an ode to Umm Kulthum Behind the dilapidated storefronts and collapsing colonnades of Rasheed Street lie the treasures of the Iraqi capital's cultural boom years: old cinemas, artisan shops and smoky cafes playing classic ballads, like the Umm Kulthum Cafe, once so busy that customers struggled to call over harried waiters to order muddy coffee and sweet Iraqi tea. Now, it only fills up on Saturdays, the traditional day for meeting up with friends in cafes. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES