Sparklers, rockets, and spinning sunflowers with flammable petals -- the firework stores in Chinese tech hub Hangzhou are a cornucopia of treats for their pyrotechnic-loving customers, who count themselves lucky to live somewhere they can set them off. In the past, Chinese cities could sound like warzones in the weeks surrounding lunar new year, thanks to the centuries-old custom of lighting festive explosives to ward off evil spirits. Nowadays those booms and bangs have disappeared from many places over fire safety and air pollution concerns, sparking a debate over heritage and freedom that has at times ignited into outright protest. IMAGES