Coca plantations blanket the mountains along the narrow Micay canyon, the heartland of Colombia's holdout guerrillas who rule their fiefdom like a mini-state. In makeshift laboratories, farmers openly mix coca leaf with gasoline to extract a paste used to make the pure cocaine that is one of Colombia's top exports. Micay canyon is a major source of tension in negotiations between the government and the Central General Staff (EMC) rebels who broke away from the FARC when it signed a 2016 peace deal. Since March, this is one of the areas where the government suspended the ceasefire, following the murder of an Indigenous woman, and threatened to send in the army. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES ARRANGED IN SEQUENCES