After serving a customer a bowl of acai with fried fish in Belem's market, Sandra da Costa wipes her hands excitedly. "Finally, the long-awaited renovation is going to happen," she says. With 200 workers laboring seven days a week, the largest open-air market in Latin America reflects the transformation underway in the Brazilian city, which is preparing to host in November the first UN climate conference in the Amazon, a meeting called COP30. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES ARRANGED IN SEQUENCES