At the Wagah-Attari border, which marks the final boundary between the nuclear-armed nations of India and Pakistan, the atmosphere is charged with patriotism. The ound of drums can be heard as soldiers perform a choreographed, ceremonial march, showcasing both countries' pride. However, the usual symbol of cooperation — a handshake between the two countries' soldiers — is missing, and the iron gates that separate the two sides remain locked. This is in the context of tense relations between India and Pakistan, heightened by a deadly attack in Kashmir. Despite the tension, people gather to express their feelings, celebrate their national identities, and watch the dramatic flag-lowering ceremony that has become a symbolic ritual at the border. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES