French cheese fans raise stink over pasteurised camembert plans Surrounded by mottled brown-and-white cows basking in the Normandy spring sunshine, Patrick Mercier admits his prized raw-milk camembert doesn't come cheap, but suggests not everyone should have to make the cheese like he does. Few foods are more emblematic of France than pungent white pucks of camembert. But camembert lovers and producers are currently embroiled in a conflict over whether pasteurised camembert is true camembert. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES