"It looks like a museum", exclaims a blogger as she discovers the Samaritaine, which is reopening its doors after 16 years of closure. But if they say they are "dazzled", many customers note that one can no longer find "everything" in the legendary Parisian department stores', owned by the luxury giant LVMH. It has become "a temple of big brands," says one visitor, a little bitterly. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES