Smells of "çörek", a spicy bun baked for Easter, once again float in the streets of Diyarbakir, in southeastern Turkey, where the Armenian community celebrates Sunday mass for the first time in eight years. Surp Giragos, the town's Armenian church, remained closed for eight years after being badly damaged in clashes between the Turkish army and Kurdish PKK fighters in 2015-2016, leaving the small community without a meeting place. Another victim of the conflict: the district of Sur, located in the historic heart of Diyarbakir, was almost completely destroyed, leaving the recently restored church as one of the rare symbols of this lost past. Nicknamed "the district of the infidels" by Muslims in reference to its population that was once predominantly made up of Christians, the district was known for its modest population, its narrow streets and its old houses made of basalt, the volcanic stone historically used in the architecture of the city. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES