In good weather, from this corner of the Comoros, you can see Mayotte, on the other side of the Indian Ocean. The French island, its schools and hospitals: a fantasy grail that thousands of Comorans try to reach every year, risking their lives. "It's mutual aid, a divine ordinance" justifies a smuggler who helps with the travel to Mayotte to sick people who can't be treated in the Comoros. At 52 years old, Rafouzoiti Dhoimir has already attempted the crossing three times, each time she was sent back to the Comoros, while her children live in Mayotte but tell her about the difficulties of living on the French island. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES