In the kitchen of his Kabul restaurant, Waheed, one of the last cooks to master the Afghan culinary art of "chainaki" stuffs chunks of mutton and fat into 200 or so tiny teapots to simmer for hours atop a clay stove. "The recipe has been the same for over 60 years, passed down to me by my father," says Waheed, 45. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES