Thirty years later, San Cristobal de las Casas, the scene of fighting between the Zapatista army and the government in 1994, continues to be a tourist attraction for people who know little about the insurgent movement. Led by their mysterious masked leader Subcomandante Marcos, the rebels rose up in poverty-stricken Chiapas to fight for more rights for the Indigenous population. The insurgency sparked a 12-day conflict with the federal government that left dozens of people dead, mostly Zapatistas. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES