Known since antiquity, and now the country's biggest wetland, Lake Karla has undergone a rollercoaster of change in just sixty years. Drained in 1962 to combat malaria and restored again from valley to wetland in 2018 to remedy drought, the lake is now triple its normal size after deadly floods last year. An unprecedented Mediterranean cyclone last September unleashed months' worth of rain in just hours in the Thessaly region, destroying infrastructure, drowning tens of thousands of farm animals and leaving 17 people dead. "We are on a boat in an area that used to be grassland in the past and where animals were grazing. Now there's only water and chaos, nothing else," says sheep farmer Apostolos Polymerou. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES