Jazz fans coiffed and tailored in 50s style immerse themselves in music on a four-and-a-half-hour trip on a creaking train from Tirana, the capital of Albania, where the rail service stopped operating 20 years ago. "It's the lovers' train, the train of love," says organiser Bledi Sujak, as he takes a breather from jiving down the aisle on "the happiest train in the world". IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES