Hjelmer Hammeken is Greenland's greatest polar bear hunter: he's killed 319 of them in 50 years, and seven this year - among the 35 polar bears now killed by local hunters each year, under a quota to slow the fall in numbers. Commanding respect in his isolated Inuit community, the 66-year-old has seen climate change happening before his eyes, as the Arctic warms four times faster than the global average. "Before, we could go to the edge of the ice floe without worrying, the ice was thicker. You could even set up a tent there and hang out without rushing or worrying about the ice breaking," he says. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES ARRANGED IN SEQUENCES