As Amsterdam kicks off year-long celebrations to mark its 750th anniversary, residents and visitors in the Jordaan, one of the Dutch capital's oldest and best-known neighbourhoods, reflect on its history and culture. "You can feel it. The warmth, the cosiness, but sometimes also the conflicts," says Laura Adriaanse, a shop owner in the Jordaan, admitting that "It has changed, but still, you feel there's a whole community spirit here." The once working-class neighbourhood is also the setting for a new musical, which its producers say captures the essence of the Dutch capital and its residents. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES